New Laminate - Sales & Installations
Wolfe Flooring sells and installs a complete line of residential goods manufactured by the top brand names in the flooring industry: Mohawk, Shaw, and more.
We'll make getting a flooring product easy. When you purchase products from Wolfe Flooring, you receive the added benefit of accessibility to technical knowledge, warranty care, routine maintenance and emergency service if calamities strikes for the life of the product.
Please ask us about a FREE home or office presentation.
We can both provide you with the products you're looking for and install the choice of your dreams. Alternatively, we can provide the products without the installation service. Or, we can provide the installation service for the products you provide. The most economical choice for most customers is for us to both supply and install your flooring goods. Most often, this is also the path of least complications.
We at Wolfe Flooring commit to following the installation procedures designated by the manufacturers. If the product calls for a particular brand of pressure sensitive adhesive and a specific notch trial, then that is what will be used. The durability and cosmetic appeal of your new flooring product is determined by two factors: (1) the manufacturer's production of quality goods and (2) a careful and diligent installation. We can get you the quality goods and give you the quality installation. We plan to make you happy!
Getting Ready to Select
It may have been a good five to ten years since the last time you selected a new flooring product. Infrequency makes it difficult to stay up with design trends, brand names, pricing and the myriad of other details that constitute a good choice. Please let us help. Below is a check list that simplifies the process. Sketch a rough diagram of the floor plan. Your diagram should included the following:
- the names of the areas (e.g., Living Room)
- the approximate measurements
- the type of flooring currently on the floor
- the type of subfloor if known (e.g., wood, concrete, terrazzo)
- the location of thresholds indicated by dotted lines
- the volume of use and type of use (e.g., rarely used/dinner parties)
- the quality of the lighting: low, medium, high
Calculate the approximate square footage of each area by multiplying the length by the width. Add 10% for overage by multiplying your total square feet by 1.10. For example, assume your room is 14 feet wide by 18 feet long.
Actual Square Footage 14' x 18' = 252 sf.
Adjusted Square Footage 252 sf. x 1.10 = 277.2 sf.
Decide how many years you want the new flooring to last. (For example, you may want to remodel in five years in order to put your home on the market.)
Gather color keys and samples of your primary colors in each area (e.g., wallpaper, drapes, paint, fabrics) or take pictures of the areas to help in the color selection.
Identify your decorating style.
Calculate your budget. And, see Pricing and Payments Policies under About Us to learn what payment options are available.
Review your calendar to select a time for the work. Generally, you should anticipate times during the work week. Also, be sure to ask how long the project will take.
Consider what moldings you want around the edges and/or at the thresholds.
Check out our comparison chart of the different flooring products (e.g., carpet, wood, tile, etc.)
Check out our decorating ideas for ideas about styles, colors, patterns, textures, and functions.
Selecting Your Product - Product Review
The following preparations should be made before your flooring product is installed. Some of these preparations may be unrealistic given your circumstances and may not have an affect on the success of the installation. However, we've included these manufacturer and regulatory agency recommendations in hope of the optimal installation and for disclosure reasons. Manufacturers may vary slightly. The manufacturer of the product you select is the final authority for their product. A layout should be agreed on. Wood may have accent pieces or borders you want positioned in a certain spot in the room, or you may want the wood angled to a particular degree.
Doors may have to be adjusted or cut at the bottom (i.e., planed) after your flooring is installed. Determinations as to whether such alterations are needed may not be possible prior to the installation. Door adjustments are priced separately.
Moldings are located at thresholds and around the room's perimeter. The molding may have to be removed, replaced, or added. A broad variety of moldings are available for all flooring products. Molding are made of wood, vinyl, rubber, metal, carpet, stone, and ceramic. Some moldings are designed to draw attention; while, others are designed to blend in with the primary flooring products. Moldings are priced separately.
- If you have a wood subfloor, verify that a wood subfloor has at least 18" of air above the ground. The ground in the crawl space should be covered with a vapor barrier 4 mils (0.1 mm) thick or greater.
- If you have a concrete subfloor and it is new construction, the concrete needs to cure for 45-120 days before installing the flooring (90 day average).
- If you have a concrete subfloor, the moisture level of the subfloor should be tested by the calcium chloride moisture test (ASTM F1869) or by the in situ probe test (ASTM F2170), which is more accurate. Moisture can cause cupping and buckling. Moisture can also deteriorate adhesives and also gender bacteria, odor, mildew, mold, rot, and water stains. Moisture in the subfloor may be the result of new concrete or ground water moisture from the outside. This test is usually just a matter of formality, except in the case of new construction or below-grade subfloors.
- If the subfloor is wood, the moisture content of the wood subfloor should be 14% or less. If the moisture content exceeds 14%, the wood should not be delivered to your site. Furthermore, there should not be more than a 4 percentage point difference between the wood subfloor and the new wood flooring.
- If you have a concrete subfloor and you've selected a direct glue-down installation method, the pH of the concrete subfloor should be tested. As concrete cures, the hydrating moisture deposits alkali salt on the concrete's surface. The pH reading should be between 5 to 10 to be suitable for wood. Alkali can deteriorate adhesives. Testing of the subfloor should be done early in order to deal with any problem that you may possibly detect. This test is usually just a matter of formality, except in the case of new construction or below-grade subfloors.
- If you've selected a direct glue-down installation method, the porosity of the subfloor (wood, concrete, etc.) should be tested. This indicates how well the adhesive will bond with the subfloor. Testing of the subfloor should be done early in order to deal with any problem that you may possibly detect. This test is usually just a matter of formality.
- Customers will need to verify that the relative humidity of the building is between 35% to 55%. High humidity may cause your new wood to expand and may also hinder the adhesive's curing time if the wood was glued down. Most customers have the proper relative humidity.
- Condition the room to between 60° and 95° F (suggested 75°) for 5 days before the wood installation. If you have a radiant-heated floor system, please turn it off 24 hours before the installation.
- After the temperature has been properly set, acclimate the new wood to the room 4 or more days prior to the installation.
- Pick up all personal items from the floor, and secure all delicate breakables (e.g., dining pieces and figurines in a China cabinet) prior to our arrival.
- Disassemble complicated electrical equipment like computers prior to our arrival.
- If the building is new construction, the building should be presented broom swept and free of all equipment, etc.
- The furniture must be carefully removed and put back in place. About half of our customers choose to handle their own furniture; therefore, furniture handling is priced separately. If you elect to handle the furniture, please remove the furniture prior to our arrival. Some manufactures recommend that furniture not be returned onto the new flooring for a period of time. See directions below under "Follow-up Activities and Initial Maintenance."
- Fixtures (e.g., toilets), doors, appliances, and other items may have to be removed and reattached. This service is priced separately.
- The old flooring must be removed and disposed of in accordance with local ordinances. We provide this service for most of our customers, but occasionally customers elect to do this themselves. Therefore, take up and disposal are priced separately. (Sometimes, new wood can be installed over existing products like vinyl, V.C.T., etc.)
- When the products arrive at your site, please verify the products are the correct color, style, and quantity you ordered. The earlier the detection the better. Flooring products that are installed create more warranty complications than products still on the truck.
- Once we begin your installation, the work area should be restricted from all foot traffic. Unfinished thresholds, flooring products and tools can pose TRIP HAZARDS. PLEASE BE CAREFUL. Please restrict the work area during the entire project.
- Please secure your small children and pets from following us out of your home while the exterior doors are open.
The subfloor must be in suitable condition. Your subfloor may or may not require floor prep. The amount of preparation varies depending on: the type of subfloor, the subfloor's condition, the manufacturer's specifications, and the installation method you select. Subfloor preparation is priced separately. The stability and precision of the subfloor will have a bearing on the long-term success of your new flooring. Nail-down, staple-down, and float-in installations require less floor prep than glue-down installations. BE ASSURED THAT FLOOR PREP IS USUALLY ONLY A NOMINAL EXPENSE. MANY CUSTOMERS HAVE NO FLOOR PREP EXPENSES.
Here are some of the common preparations made on the different floor types: concrete, terrazzo, wood, or metal.
- Subfloor must be level within 1/4 inch per 10 feet.
- Plywood joints should be level within 1/32".
- Reinforce subfloor to stiffen and smooth the surface with backerboard, Wonderboard®, wood underlayment, lauan plywood panels (Type 1, exterior, OVL grade, solid core mahogany), or plywood.
- Treat for urine contamination.
- Abrade glazed surfaces for a glue-down installation.
- Seal off moisture with impervious 6 mil (0.15 mm) polyethylene film, 15 lb asphalt felt, red rosin paper, or another moisture retardant.
- Replace weak boards and secure loose boards.
- Seal with primer.
- Mopping with a mix of muriatic acid with water (1:10) or a mix of white vinegar with water (1:1) and rinse to neutralize alkalinity on concrete.
- Grind away concrete curing agents, parting agents, or surface hardeners.
- Grind down high spots.
- Chip away wall plaster, etc.
- Fill holes and cracks up to ¼" thickness with patch and/or leveling compounds.
- Fill in and level depressions up to ¼" deep with patch and/or leveling compounds.
- Nail down protruding nails.
- Remove old adhesive completely.
- Remove paint, varnish, wax, pigmented material, solvents, grease, oil, etc. completely.
- Sand away rust of metal substrates.
- Sweep clean.
If you've elected to have the wood custom finished, plan the finishing to take place 1-3 weeks after the wood installation depending on curing conditions. Also, the V.O.C. emissions during the finishing process may be unpleasant depending on the type of finish you choose. You you may need to consider renting a hotel room during this time.
Follow-up Activities and Initial Maintenance
- Documentation. Process the billing and get a hand written or published warranty. Retain the sales receipt and any product description from the purchase of the goods. If possible, document the manufacturer's name and the manufacturer's full product description including color. Furthermore, retain a sample of the laminate for comparisons. For insurance purposes, it's good to have a picture of your new product in a safe place.
- Attic Stock. Retain extra laminate for possible repairs that may be needed in the future. Keep the laminate in a dry place that stays about room temperature. Do not put your excess laminate in a hot attic or a moist basement. Extreme heat or high humidity can ruin the laminate. The laminate must remain laying flat.
- Wolfe Flooring picks up all flooring product scraps. The customer may need to sweep the laminate. If your laminate was glued down or floated with adhesive in the joints, do not sweep for 24 hours after the installation.
- Cutting and sanding boards will create dust. This dust cannot be contained completely. Some may settle in nooks and crevices and even in the AC ducts.
- If your laminate was glued down or floated with adhesive in the joints, do not return the furniture or expose the laminate to heavy foot traffic for 24 hours after the installation. The adhesive needs time to cure. If your laminate was installed without adhesive, you can return the furniture and expose the laminate to heavy foot traffic immediately after the installation.
- Maintain the same temperature for 48 hours after your installation. Never allow the subfloor's temperature to exceed 100° F during the life of your laminate. Leaving the building unoccupied with significant changes in temperature and relative humidity can cause damage. If you have a radiant-heated floor system, leave it off for 24 hours after the installation.
- Ventilate the areas during the installation and for 24 to 48 hours after the installation to dissipate the new product smell. Enhance the ventilation by switching your air conditioner to fresh air, not re-circulated air.
- Never wet mop laminate floor. Moisture can ruin your floor.
Read: How to Maintain Laminate
Read: Laminate Spot Cleaning Guidelines
Read: How to Protect Flooring