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Rejuvenating
Hardwood: >
Introduction
The recoat is less expensive than refinishing and requires much less disturbance and leaves no dust residues. This is a very good option if your existing finish has not worn through. This will revitalize the shine while getting rid of mild discolorations that haven't penetrated the wood. We first clean the floor, then abrade, and finalize by applying two coats of finish. The refinish gives your wood floor a completely new look. This process includes sanding, sealing, and finishing with two coats. The sanding allows you to change the color and remove bad discolorations, etc. at the same time. Reasons that often prompt this work or are targeted at the same time:
We'll make revitalizing your hardwood easy. When you select Wolfe
Flooring, you receive the added benefit of accessibility to technical
knowledge, warranty care, routine maintenance and emergency service if
calamities strikes for the life of the product. Product Review Finishes. There are many types of finishes available including waterborne, oil-modified polyurethane, acid cure urethanes (a.k.a., Swedish finish), moisture-cure urethanes, varnish, shellac and lacquer finishes, and "polymer finishes" (i.e., acrylic impregnated or an irradiated polymer). We offer two primary types: oil-modified urethane and waterborne which are described in the next two paragraphs. Click here to read NOFMA's complete description of the finishes. Gloss levels vary: matte, satin, semi-gloss, high gloss, and other variations. Oil-modified urethane finishes are very popular and offer a deep luster.
Oil-modified urethanes yellow or amber a little over time which may or may
not be desirable. You'll save about 13% with an oil-modified urethane. Click here to read
more about the oil-modified
finishes we offer. Amenities. It is the perfect time to get other products and services when you are having your floors sanded and refinished. Extra Coats. Our pricing normally assumes that we will provide two coats of finish in addition to the sealant as specified by the manufacturer. Some customers want an additional one or two coats to add a deeper look and longer lasting finish. This is recommending in high traffic areas. An extra coat is a fairly inexpensive addition. Stains. Deep, penetrating stains can be added to alter the natural color of your wood. Some hardwood floors have an existing stain. Existing stains are lost during the sanding process. Thus, staining will be necessary if we are to attempt to match your current look. This also is a fairly inexpensive addition.
Medallion
or Border. Adding a medallion or a border can turn an ordinary Bleaching. The natural color of your wood can be lightened by using a wood bleaching technique and then applying a white or pastel stain. We can sample a small area to give you a feel for the degree of color reduction. Wood should be bleached only one time. Distressed Effect. Some customers want an aged look. The rustic style can be mild to severe and can follow a decorating theme: e.g., seashore, western, etc. Getting Ready to Select Sketch a rough diagram of the floor plan. Your diagram should included the following: the names of the areas (e.g., Living Room) the approximate measurements the type of flooring currently on the floor the type of subfloor if known (e.g., wood, concrete, terrazzo)
the location of thresholds indicated by dotted lines the volume of use and type of use (e.g., rarely used/dinner parties)
the quality of the lighting: low, medium, high Calculate the approximate square footage of each area by multiplying the length by the width.
For example, assume your room is 14 feet wide by 18 feet long. Decide how many years you want the new
finish to last. (For example, you may want to change the wood color
when you remodel in five years in order to put your home on the market.) Calculate your budget. And, see Pricing and Payments Policies under About Us to learn what payment options are available. Review your calendar to select a time for the work. Generally, you should anticipate times during the work week. Also, be sure to ask how long the project will take. Consider what
moldings you want replaced around the edges and/or at the thresholds. Wood
Recoating or Refinishing Preparation Moldings are located at thresholds and around the room's
perimeter (a.k.a., shoemolding). The
molding may have to be removed, replaced, or added.
Moldings are priced separately. If you have a wood subfloor, verify that a wood subfloor has at least 18" of air above the ground. The ground in the crawl space should be covered with a vapor barrier 4 mils (0.1 mm) thick or greater. The moisture content of
your wood should be tested if you've had a moisture problem (e.g.,
flood, leak, cracked slab, etc.) of any type. The sanding should not
take place until the moisture in your hardwood has reached normal
levels of 14% or less. New finish would inhibit
evaporation. Wolfe Flooring can perform this test if you're wary. Please condition the room to
about 75° prior to our arrival. If you have a radiant-heated floor system, please turn it off 24 hours before the
recoating or refinishing. Please, pick up all personal items from the floor, and secure all delicate breakables (e.g., dining pieces and figurines in a China cabinet) prior to our arrival. Please, disassemble complicated electrical equipment like computers prior to our arrival. If the building is new construction, the building should be presented broom swept and free of all equipment,
etc. The furniture must be carefully removed and put back in place. About half of our customers choose to handle their own furniture; therefore, furniture handling is priced separately. If you elect to handle the furniture, please remove the furniture prior to our arrival. Some
manufacturers recommend that furniture not be returned onto the new flooring for a period of time. See directions below under
"Follow-up Activities and Initial Maintenance." Fixtures (e.g., toilets), doors, appliances, and other items may have to be removed and reattached. This service is priced separately. Once we begin your
recoating or refinishing, the work area should be restricted from all foot traffic. Unfinished thresholds, flooring products and tools can pose TRIP HAZARDS. PLEASE BE CAREFUL. Please restrict the work area during the entire project. Please secure your small children and pets from following us out of your home while the exterior doors are open.
KEEP CHILDREN AWAY FROM THE PLASTIC we may hang to contain the dust. Your hardwood must be in suitable
condition to get optimal results.
The floor may or may not require specialized prep. Some types of preparation
are priced separately.
BE ASSURED THAT FLOOR PREP IS USUALLY ONLY A NOMINAL EXPENSE. MANY CUSTOMERS HAVE NO FLOOR PREP EXPENSES. Replace burnt, rotten, and termite damaged boards Level uneven boards Secure loose or squeaking boards Extra sanding to eliminate severe crowning or cupping Trowel fill or spot fill cracks, dents, termite
damage, etc. Reinforce floor to stiffen
particular boards Treat for urine
contamination Remove tackless
strip from perimeter if the area was covered by carpet Chip away wall plaster, etc. Nail down protruding
nails Sweep clean The V.O.C. emissions during the finishing process
may be unpleasant depending on the type of finish you choose.
You may need to consider renting a hotel room during this time. Follow-up Activities and Initial Maintenance Process the billing and get a hand written or published warranty. Retain the sales receipt and any product descriptions. If possible, document the manufacturer's name and the manufacturer's full product description including color. Cutting and
sanding boards will create dust. This dust cannot be contained
completely. Some may settle in nooks and crevices and even in
the AC ducts. Click to read more about our guarantees. The curing time varies between different finishes. The first 24 hours are the most critical. After 24 hours, you may walk softly on the new finish.
Furniture should be placed down carefully if it needs to put it back. Finishes are often 90% cured within the first 72 hours. Your new finish will likely cure for a full week. The finish is
susceptible to scuffing during this week. Rugs should not be replaced till the week has passed. Do not
clean the finish, not even with water. Finally, keep the pets off for the first 24 hours and for the first week if possible. If this is not possible, trim the pet's nails. Maintain the same temperature for 48 hours after your
recoat or refinish. Never allow the subfloor's temperature to exceed 100° F during the life of your wood. Leaving the building unoccupied with significant changes in temperature and relative humidity can cause damage. If you have a radiant-heated floor system, leave it off for 24 hours after the
recoat or refinishing. Ventilate the areas during the
process and for 24 to 48 hours after the installation to
dissipate the new product smell. Enhance the ventilation by switching your air conditioner to fresh air, not
re-circulated air. Never wet mop a wood or laminate floor. Moisture can ruin your floor. Consult our wood maintenance guide for more extensive information on daily care.
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