Questions and Answers

Question from Larry in Carl Junction, MO: Our church is trying to decide if we want to re-upholster our pews and someone suggested dying the color since the fabric isn't worn out. Can you tell us the advantages and disadvantages of dying the upholstery?
Answer: My comments assume that the current fabric and seam edges have little to no ware as you mentioned. Certain types of yarn will not receive post-manufacturing dye. You will need to contact a specialist in your area to identify your yarn type if you don't have this in your documentation. (Burn tests and chemical tests are available; furthermore, sampling in an inconspicuous spot will be necessary.) The dye used must be a quality dye to eliminate/minimize dye loss afterwards. The specialist who does the work will need to clean the upholstery one, two, or more times after dying to rid the pews of excess dye least you have a transfer to people's clothes. You can verify that the pews are ready for people by rubbing the pews with a perfectly white towel and looking for dye transfer. Pay attention to the irregular folds in the fabric that may trap excess dye until some unsuspecting soul gets a smug on her light beige skirt. Bleeding dyes can be a disaster in this setting, but thorough testing can prevent such problems. When you have the pews professionally cleaned months or years down the road, the post-manufacturing dye may not hold as well as the original dye. Overall, this should save a lot of money. The key will be the professional experience of the actual technicians. One other thing, when you do have the pews professionally cleaned down the road, tell the cleaning technician that the pews were dyed and that you want a mild acidic cleaning solution used like All Fiber Rinse by www.Prochem.com. This will help set dye that is prone to bleeding. Again, contact an experienced professional in your area to look at your situation. An on-site inspection can bring critical issues to the surface. Blessings to you in the name of Jesus Christ who is the only way to the Father (John 14:6).

Question from Ellen in Chicago, IL: I am building a house soon in Chicago. Do you guys distribute here in the mid-west? Now is the time to think about floors. I would consider myself somewhat designer savvy - but cannot - cannot decide on flooring. I need ideas from the foyer, living room, kitchen, and three bathrooms. AGHHH. I am hoping that someone would just enter me in a contest and decide for me!!! Any help and new ideas would be appreciated. Happy valentine's day!! We plan on building this spring. The house should be done by fall. Specs: 2700 sq footage, 3 bathrooms, 1st floor will not be on a concrete slab as we will have a basement. We will have an upstairs: 3 bedrooms total. Thank you for your help! Looking forward to any insightful ideas that you may have! Warm regards!
Answer: Yes, we can help you with your design ideas but only via our web site. Our clients are limited to Central Florida. We aid our local clients in considering the cosmetic outcome as well as structural needs for the installation and the future maintenance of each flooring type. We have a broad collection of ideas for those who wish to make a fashion statement with their floors by incorporating patterns, medallions, and borders. Likewise, we know how to keep a project within budget. My objective is to make the process as smooth and as stress free as possible. Unfortunately, this will not be of benefit to you seeing that we are in Tampa, Florida.
Let me suggest the following. When selecting contractors or retailers, ask for their certifications. This is not a guaranteed way of finding professionals, but does help sometimes. You can go to CFI Installers for installers in your area. Likewise, ask for certificates of insurance and Worker's Comp coverage. Furthermore, you may want to ask what trade shows they have attended lately to see if the retailer is staying up with the latest products. Surfaces and Coverings are two of the largest shows.
I'd invite you back to our site for several key pages. 
   > For general design ideas - Decorating Guide
   > For pros and cons of flooring types - Compare Flooring Types
   > For technical guidance in selecting individual surfaces - Click on New Flooring Sales & Installations (top left toolbar) and select the flooring category.
Bear in mind that you'll need a product that is safe for moisture in the basement because it is below grade and in the three bathrooms. The wood substrate at ground level and the upstairs will likely need to be reinforce if you are installing brittle products like ceramic or stone so that you do not develop cracks down the road. The same may be true for the installation of hardwood.
Remember that borders and medallions are becoming very popular these days. Integrating metal into floors and walls is also becoming popular. 
I hope this helps. Best wishes.

Question from Lolita in Allentown, PA: I need samples of CYP carpets ASAP. Can you help?
Answer: Yes, we can provide CYP carpet samples. You can link to the CYP section of Durkan's site from the following page www.WolfeFlooring.com/Durkan.asp. This link will allow you to begin searching patterns and colors. Durkan is a leading producer of sophisticated carpet with hundreds of patterns and colors with complete flexibility. The possibilities are endless including custom goods. Please allow me to ask a few questions about your project.
   1) What type of facility is the site? (e.g., hotel, restaurant, etc.) 
   2) What type of spaces will be remodeled? (e.g., corridors, ballrooms, conference rooms, guestrooms, etc.) 
   3) About how many yards will you need? 
   4) Do you want borders with the patterned field? 
   5) Have you established a budget? If so, what is the range? 
   6) I know you're in a hurry, when do you want to begin your installation?
We are looking forward to speaking with you in person. Your project will be assigned to David Wolfe, my brother. He has headed up many large, commercial CYP projects and has a marvelous ability to take the headache out of renovations.

Question from Amber in Columbia, MO: Hello. I found your website very informative and although I can't hire you to help with my new floors, I thought you might be willing to answer a question for me. Varathane has a new "no sanding" product and I was wondering if you had any opinions about the product. I am getting ready to re-do a floor that is not in bad shape…someone just refinished it, but sanded the wrong way, so it has some scratches, but I would like to try this product instead of sanding, but wanted a professional's opinion. Thanks.
Answer: Thanks for your patience. I've been inundated with activities. Although we are thankful for all the business, the workload makes it impossible to respond to everyone as fast as we'd like. Our company offers a similar technique to restore hardwood floors using a competing product (unavailable in stores) to Flecto's Varathane (i.e., a Rust-Oleum brand). The product should make a wonderful improvement if your floor needs a new sheen. Varathane is designed to be used over water- or oil-based finishes. Special bonding agents prevent the finish from peeling off six months down the road. As extra precaution, check with the manufacturer of your existing finish to verify that they are not aware of any possible problems. Some hardwoods have specific impregnators and finishes that disqualify them as candidates for renewal procedures like these. Varathane dries clear over the existing finish. Thus, Varathane is suited for floors with "minor damage such as scuff marks and surface scratches," according the Flecto. So, ask yourself this question? Is your existing finish worn down to the wood? If the answer is yes, you should proceed with (1) recoating the existing finish or (2) sanding and refinishing altogether. To read more about recoating and refinishing, read our article on "Rejuvenating Hardwood: Recoating or Refinishing." If you have dents, chips, gouges, severe scratches, discolored finish, or other such problems refinishing is the best approach. Sanding marks left in the previous attempt will remain until they are sanding out.
We hope this helps. Please refer us to your family and friends in the Tampa, Florida area.

Question from Mark in Tampa, FL: Our house had new beige carpet put in it in the last 6 months. As we were moving in, my daughter was playing and spilled a bottle of green ink in the middle of her bedroom floor. We blotted and cleaned as much as we could, but there is still a pale green stain. Any suggestions for getting it out?
Answer: It was good to blot up the spill immediately.  Most stains set over time.  The longer one waits, the less likely the stain can be removed.  There are two primary types of ink:  petroleum-based and water-based.  We have home remedies for ink listed in our Stain Removal Guide.  If the stain removal methods in the guide are unsuccessful or impractical because of your move, we have professional cleaning solutions that will almost always vanish ink stains.  The only potential problem to cleaning the stain is if the dye in the ink has altered the dye in the carpet yarn.  If the dye has been altered, two more alternatives are available.  We can (1) perform a heat transfer or (2) cut out and replace the damaged area.  Hope this helps.

Question from Julie in Mchenry, IL: Do you know of any rugs that do not discolor vinyl?  Where can they be purchased?
Answer: Unfortunately, there is no quick answer.  Discolorations under rugs develop for three primary reasons:  (1) wear patterns from foot traffic, (2) oxidation from air and sunlight exposure, (3) and chemical reactions to rugs or to underlayments.  Most surfaces (e.g., vinyl, carpet, wood, etc.) will develop discolorations from irregular wear patterns and oxidation; therefore, rugs and furniture should be moved around.  As for chemical reactions, most quality wool rugs should be fine on the vinyl floor.  Some rubber underlayments and attached backings can have chemical reactions.  Cheap rugs and handmade foreign rugs might have bleeding dyes.  Underlayments are available to deal with bleeding dyes and chemical reactions.  We offer a felt backing (and, sometimes a cloth backing) with which we've never had a discoloring problem.  Read Rug Alterations and Repairs: Backings for more information on attached backings.  Hope this helps.

Question from MJ Gardner in Woodstock (Atlanta area), GA: Do you have anyone in the Atlanta area that cleans wool rugs? Thanks.
Answer: Our cleaning services are targeted towards the residential and commercial customers of the Tampa Bay area.  I will offer you a little help via the following insider tips on choosing a professional rug cleaning company.  Ask about the prospective company's procedures.  Professionals will test the rug's dye for color fastness before doing any cleaning.  The first step of the cleaning should be to safely shake the sand out as much as is reasonable.  Furthermore, you may wish to ask what is the pH of their cleaning solutions.  High quality wool rugs should be cleaned with solutions with about a 7 pH.  Also, ask what temperature they use.  Again for fine wool rugs, temperature should be very warm, but not hot (e.g., 110 degrees).  Likewise, you might ask how they handle fringe.  Fringe is the harder part of the rug to rejuvenate and may require a second or third cleaning.  Finally, the pile should be groomed down so as to have all the yarn running the same direction.  To read more, visit our Rug Cleaning page.  Hope this helps.

Question from Alison  in Canton, GA: I would like to know how to remove cigarette smoke (smell) from a mattress and boxspring.  I have tried Febreeze but, need something a little stronger to do the trick.
Answer: A professional carpet cleaning company in your area may be able to help.  First, I must tell you that the smell may not be completely removed within reasonable efforts.  However, you should have both sides of the mattress professionally steam cleaned and treated with solutions specifically designed for smoke damage.  Such solutions are primarily intended for disaster recovery (i.e., fire damage).  The extraction will have to be strong to prevent souring from overwetting.  The smell may take multiple cleanings.  Ask for an estimate before the first cleaning to weigh the cost-benefit tradeoff between cleaning and buying new. To read about the steps we follow when cleaning a mattress, click Upholstery Cleaning.

Question from Jennifer in Tampa, FL: We are moving out of our apartment by the end of August, and we have two areas on the carpet, approximately 3 ft by 1 ft that appear to have been bleached out.  Is this something you can fix and approximately what would the cost be?  Thanks a lot.
Answer: Yes, we can fix the bleach damage; however, the solution may not be cost effective.  There are two possible repair approaches: dye the spots or cut the spots out and seam in a new pieces.  Spot dying carpet is an uncertain solution and would require a bleach neutralizer to prepare the carpet if the carpet is a suitable candidate.  The uncertainty resides in the hues, tones and shades created between the dye and the carpet and the bleach.  The more definite solution is to perform a bonded insert.  The carpet can be taken from a large closet and seamed into place.  If the carpet from the closet has similar wear and fading as the carpet surrounding the bleach spot, our seam work is often invisible.  I'll need a little more information to give you an estimated price.  Please give us your exact sizes of the two spot.  Are there two spots each about 3' x 1' or would that encompass both spots?  Are the spots in the same room?  What is the size of the total room?  Often spots that require this much seam work or dyeing are not cost effective.  That is, replacement has to be considered.  Hope this helps. 

Question from Nandha Kurmar in INDIA: Sir, I am an architecture student from a college in India.  I came to know about your company while surfing the net.  I need to take a seminar about "FLOORING", so please provide me sufficient info about the types of flooring done, types of furnishings for the floors, methodology of laying the different types & also the recent trend in the market.  Please send the info as soon as possible, within a week to my email.  Thanking you, please do the needful.  [Must be an expression in India.]
Answer: Here is a quick overview of flooring.  My comments shall be generalized; however, there are notable differences between residential and commercial flooring products.  There are natural and synthetic products.  The natural products are usually more expensive and more temperamental.  Natural products include wool carpet, wool rugs, hardwood, and stone.  Synthetic products dominate most of what's on the floors in America.  Synthetic products include traditional broadloom carpet, resilient vinyl and rubber products, and ceramic tile.  There are other specialty products like cork, leather, animal hides, and metal which are rare.  The installation methods vary considerable based on the substrate (concrete or plywood) and on the type of flooring being installed.  The methods include thin-bed setting, thick-bed setting, glue down, stretch-in, staple down, nail down, loose lay, or floating.  As for trends, the market is ever changing.  As America becomes for affluent, the slight shift is towards more expensive products.  Carpet is still the undisputable giant in the industry with about 69% of the market share, but laminate, ceramic and hardwood (in this order) were the fastest growing segments in 2002.  In summary, all flooring products (with the exception of rubber in 2002) seem to be selling more simply because more buildings are being erected.   I hope this helps you on your way.   If you would like to study more, I'll direct you to trade organizations that specialized in a particular product types (e.g., stone).

Question from Tim in Tampa, FL: I need to repair my hardwood floor because of air pockets.  Can you come and give me a quote to inject adhesive?
Answer: Yes, we can help you with your problem, Tim.  It would be good to start by qualifying your floor as a good candidate for such an approach.  I'll assume that your hardwood was installed via a direct-glue method and that you have an engineered floor.  In such a case, we would suggest our 100% polyurethane adhesive to fill the hollow cavities.  Using a 100% polyurethane should prevent any cupping problems that could otherwise develop.  The curing time is about 30 minutes.  The cost of the injection kits combined with the labor can be very expensive depending on the number of and sizes of the air pockets.

Question from Erin in Tampa, FL: We just moved to the area and the movers cut our berber carpet that we originally bought as a remnant.  I am trying to file a claim and replace it (probably with different colors).  The carpet is a 12x18 berber.  I know this does not help much for a quote, but if you can help please let me know.  Thanks.
Answer: Welcome to Tampa!  The prices are effect by numerous factors: pick count, face weight, yarn type, etc. (see Measurements for more), but the basics of the market are this.  Low quality products will cost about $9 per square yard (SY); middle grade will cost about $18-28 per SY; high grade may cost $40 per SY and above.  If you buy your replacement piece from us, we can also apply a rubberized backing to your new rug and bind the edges to prevent unraveling.  As an alternative to replacement, we can seam the cut in your broadloom throw rug.

Question from Ms. Honey in the Sarasota, FL: I have a VCT floor in five school buildings with old wooden baseboards. I want to remove the wood baseboards and replace them with vinyl wall base to reduce maintenance, but we will have a gap between floor and wall.  Is there something I can use for this gap?  Thank you.
Answer: There are several companies that make resilient wall base (i.e., vinyl base or rubber base). What will determine whether you have any easy solution available by replacing the wood baseboards with vinyl or rubber wall base will be determined by the size of the existing baseboard. You need a wall base that is just as tall or taller than the existing baseboards. Rubber and vinyl wall base are available in heights of 2.5", 3.125", 4.0", 4.375", 6.0", 6.375", and maybe others. Bear in mind that there is a difference in price and quality between vinyl base and rubber base. There are differences in resilient wall base for V.C.T. on the floor (i.e., the base has a lip) as opposed to carpet on the floor (i.e., the base has a notch). Furthermore, there is straight base, and there is cove base. Finally, different thicknesses are available. More could be said, but I'll refrain. I hope this answers your question. We are available for hire as consultants, and we also sell these products. 

Question from Harry in the Internet world: We have a client (& close friend) in Tampa who needs to have a small piece (approx 12 x 11) bound and delivered to their home in S. Tampa.  We can ship their carpet direct to your warehouse if your company can do this. They may also want cushion.  Is this something you can help them with?  Please advise asap.  Thanks.
Answer: We can cut and bind your client's rug to any size.  We can also deliver the rug to their South Tampa home when convenient to their schedule.  We have a couple of underlayments available.  Some are sold separately and others are adhered to the back of the broadloom.  Your shipper can send the rug to our warehouse at 8602 Temple Terrace Hwy, Unit D-26.  The driver must call 30 minutes in advance to one of the numbers below.  Deliveries are received Mon - Fri. from 7:30 AM to 6:00 PM.  Call for pricing.

Comment from Ann in Lakewood, CO: Your website is fantastic!  I found you while doing a Google search of furniture stains on carpet. Your detailed instructions were highly effective, and I had all the "ingredients" on hand.  So many people take the wealth of information available on the internet for granted, not stopping to think that someone took time and money to provide valuable free information. Thanks for helping me save my carpet!  I only wish you were in Colorado!  But thanks for helping out everyone, not just potential customers.
Reply: You're welcome.  Thousands of people visit our site every month (the stain removal techniques being the most popular).  We often read expressions of appreciation from those who receive personal answers to their specific questions.  But, you're the only one (thus far) we've ever had thank us for making the general information available.  So, you are certainly welcome!  Your words are very kind.  Have a wonderful evening.

Question from Suzanne in Tampa, FL: I am thinking of purchasing a home in the Tampa area.  I want to have ceramic tile floors, but I have NO idea what the price ranges are.  I feel what the builder is quoting me is high, and I would like to have even a vague idea of what it would cost to have this done myself.  I am looking at a 12x12 tile--probably a standard one (nothing fancy).  But again, I have NO idea.  I've moved here from the north, and we just don't do tile floors where I'm from.  Can you give me an idea of what a price range would be per square foot?  Thanks! 
Answer: The general cost of ceramic is about $6/sf and up. Cheaper products are available, but are not the focus of our product line. If the budget permits, people want ceramic that is highly scratch resistant, unlikely to chip, has the same color through the body, etc. You can read more about how to purchase a quality ceramic at http://www.wolfeflooring.com/installation_tile.asp  You should strongly consider having a crack suppressant (a.k.a., crack isolation membrane) installed under your new ceramic or have the ceramic set with a flexible mortar. Concrete slabs (especially new slabs) are rather certain to settle which can lead to cracks in your new tile floor or result in tiles popping off the floor. Of course, this will be beyond any contractor's warranty. If we can help, please let us know. We have relationships with manufacturers producing the finest products available. Furthermore, we can show you elegant layouts to add sophistication to the overall look. 

Question from Jeff in Winnipeg, MB of Canada: I am interested in installing a glueless laminate floor in our summer cabin, that is not heated during our cold winter. It has a plywood subfloor about 2 feet above grade, completely sealed by a concrete partial wall and beams etc such that there is no accessible crawl space and no ventilation of this space that I can identify. The cabin is situated on very sandy soil on which rain disappears promptly! I am planning on using a vapour barrier under the floor, but how important is it that I drill holes through the side of the cabin to establish ventilation of the crawl space? Thanks very much for your help.
Answer: It's good to receive a question from one of our Canadian friends. Being in sunshiny Tampa, FL, I cannot relate to the idea of having cold winters. As for your floors, I'll offer a few thoughts. First, real hardwood floors have much less dimensional stability than laminates in environments where humidity and temperature are uncontrolled, so you've probably made a good choice by selecting laminate. Second, the moisture barrier is a great idea. But know that barriers are only inhibitors. If the moisture levels from the ground are too wet and the ventilation is poor, your new laminate floors will cup. Generally, quality ventilation in the crawl space under the floor is important. However, your situation may be different. One of the best ways to check this (but may be impractical) is to check the moisture levels of the subfloor shortly after a rain (6, 12, 24, and 48 hours after). When we are installing laminate or hardwood or other surfaces sensitive to moisture changes, we will take non-penetrating digital readings of the surface in several places and document the findings. The readings take only seconds if the subfloor is already exposed. The manufacturer (e.g., Wilsonart, Pergo, Witex, Columbia, etc.) will specify allowable moisture levels. Finally, the laminate manufacturer may also set a temperature range for their product which you should consult.

Question from Ms. J. with unnamed carpet and rug manufacturer in CA: I am inquiring as to whether you are able to assist us with a rug problem. It is a two border, 11'x14' custom rug which was installed and now has ripples on the side borders. (We think this may have been caused by sitting within a warehouse, rolled up for too long.) Anyway, it is a problem we hope to rectify locally, instead of shipping back to California. The job . . . is located in Naples, Fl. Also, it is in a high rise unit, I am not sure what floor. The customer has requested we wait until April, since they are entertaining this season. At that time, they move back up north. You can view the rug design at [nameprotected].com and look for the rug style "[name protected]". We realize you will have to include a trip charge. If you are not able, can you recommend someone else? Thanks.
Answer: Naples is several hours away from us; therefore, your most economical solution is to find an experienced company in that county. Unfortunately, I do not know any companies in Naples. If you desire for us to do the work, you are looking at a price of about $XXX just as was the case for the recent repair we did for your company in Naples. By the way, we corrected this problem for two of your clients on Longboat Island in the Sarasota area. . . .  Thanks.
Follow up from Ms. J.: I cannot find someone who is qualified, nor understands this procedure; remember, there is no hurry. The customer will be leaving to return to their home up north in April, and, do not want anyone there until they leave. If your charge is $XXX. as you previously mentioned, then I will turn this over to our customer service dept. to approve. Thanks, and let me know.

Question from Ed in Sarasota, FL: I have a hand woven Mexican rug 10 X 14 feet. The rug is natural wool color. We are thinking of having it dyed. Do you dye rugs? Is this practical? If you don't, do you know who does?
Answer: We do perform limited dying, but generally recommend against after-market dying. Rugs are dyed to give an aged look or to darken colors. Some companies perform this to satisfy customers like yourself, but the more common purpose of batch dying is to improve marketability after importing. I do not know of any local companies which perform this service on a routine basis. I will give you a couple of words of caution. Some dyes do not hold very well. This is especially true of post-manufacturing dyes. As a result, you may have to have the rug dyed again in a few years or after getting the rug cleaned. Furthermore, watch for dye crocking and dye bleeding or leeching. Crocking is when foot traffic disperses loose dye particles to surrounding surfaces like vinyl. Bleeding and leeching occurs when the dye particles slowly migrate or leech down to the carpet or other surface below creating a permanent discoloration. Finally, I'd recommend that you not attempt to change to a new color. Darkening the original color to a deeper shade is more predictable.

Question from Dan in West Tampa, FL: I am following up on our conversation back on December 21st when the carpets were cleaned for us. We talked about a number of chipped floor tiles I wanted to get a price on replacing. I have on hand: 19 whole tiles, 10 half tiles and 8 corner (less than half) tiles. Natura Florida Tile, size 8 x 8 Glazed Ceramic Tile, color - 8325 Pebble, lot # 56H-5 I have two partial bags of grout, not enough to do the job. One bag marked Ceramic Grade Floor Grout - brown. Stone Mountain is the manufacturer. Other bag - "AR" dense, high strength grout for tile, brick and pavers. Color - #12 ______ Buff (couldn't make out the underlined part). by C-Cure Chemical Co. The tiles to be replaced are as follows: Sliding door from family room to pool area:  extend tile by 2" on right side to be uniform with left side. Need 2 whole tiles and a corner. Dining room/family room entrance: Replace 1 chipped half tile. Dining room/living room tile to carpet edge: replaced 3 chipped edges, need 2 whole tiles and half tile. Kitchen: 8 whole tiles total; Living room: 2 chipped half tiles; Hallway: 5 chipped half tiles.  Estimated total tiles to be replaced: 12 whole tiles, 9 half tiles, 1 corner tile.
Answer: Well, happy new year! One bag of the right grout should be plenty. We will remove the damaged tiles, cut and set the new tiles, and apply the grout.  The price is usually about $XX per tile so you'd be looking at a price of about $XXX. This is a soft estimate because every project is different. Please let me know if this price range is suitable to your budget.
Follow up from Dan: The price is good.  I'm waiting on a couple of items before I proceed with the tile floor. Will let you know shortly.

Question from Barbara in Hernando Beach, Florida: I am interested in purchasing some remnant carpet for the home covering approx. 800 - 900 square feet. We are looking for the most inexpensive neutral color installed. We rented our home and now are selling. The renters trashed the existing carpet and would like something that looks clean and neat and neutral (of course). Thanks for your time in advance.
Answer: I've got a terrific carpet choice in mind for you but do want to ask two questions before making a recommendation. Do you plan to install the carpet yourself? Do you plan to install base-grade cushion at the same time? (Usually, people do replace the cushion at the same time for efficiency and overall savings.)
Follow up from Barbara: I don't think I will be changing my padding because I bought the highest quality with my present carpet. I am interested in knowing your lowest prices and maybe some samples.
Answer: Because of your location, we can only cost-effectively bid the sell of the carpet without labor. Did you anticipate doing the installation yourself? Also, does my price need to include shipping to you or will you pick up the product from our warehouse in Tampa?

Question from Merrily in Wesley Chapel, FL: We would like to have a wood laminate floor installed in our Master Bedroon, Living Room, Family Room and hallway. Do you charge to come to our home and give an estimate? We are ready to have this completed as soon as possible. If the price is right, we may consider flooring in three additional bedrooms. Thank you in advanced.
Answer: Thank you for your interest in our company. We do not charge to measure and give written quotations, but we may not have the ability to take on another project at this time. We can give you a general feel for the pricing via email based on rough sizes of the rooms. Please give us some soft numbers for your sizes. If you will distinguish between the four main areas and the three additional areas, I will give you a guesstimate for the primary phase and the total project.  Here are a few other questions:
   > Are you seeking a particular brand of laminate? 
   > Do you want underlayment/cushion under the laminate to add softness or reduce sound? 
   > What is currently installed on the floor in those rooms? 
   > Does the house have a concrete or wood subfloor? 
   > Have you established a budget for your project? 
   > Have you considered upgrading to a real engineered hardwood for just a little more per square foot? (Remember that once laminate is scratched, it most be discarded. Once hardwood is scratched, it can be sanded and refin
ished for a brand new look.)
Follow up question: We are open to Pergo or another brand.  Like this: there is a brand that has graining texture we are considering this type (mother-in-law's floor).  It is snap and lock and is made by someone other than Pergo. I'm unsure about underlayment and cushion.  Carpet is currently on the floor.  The subfloor is concrete.  We have no budget - looking for best estimate.  We had Pergo in our last home and enjoyed it - This is what we are looking for again.  We have 3 small children and 3 dogs and I think this is the best option for our family.  I am concerned about what you said about not being able to take on another project.  What would the wait time be if we decide to go with your company?  Now-the measurements--you asked a woman to do this so don't laugh... [measurements excluded]  Please give me an estimate off of these measurements.  Thanks so much.
Answer: I'm sure you did a fine job with the measurements. You are generally looking at about $4500 for the installation of new laminate for the areas with measurements. This price includes an extra 10% above your listed square footage to provide for typical overage. A normal master bedroom is 15'x15' and will run about $XXXX, which includes overage.  We do have a wood/laminate type product that has graining, but it is not clickable. So, the product we have with graining is probably different than your mother-in-law's laminate. Laminate will cup if exposed to moisture. Therefore, in addition to the laminate, it is advisable and usually necessary to install a moisture
barrier under the laminate. The moisture barrier will prevent moisture from leeching up through the concrete. As for our schedule, I'll need to speak with [the rep. for your project]. He will likely oversee your project if all sounds acceptable so far. It is reasonable to think that you can have your new floor installed in about two to three weeks. This permits time to visit your home to show samples and take measurements, time to place the order and receive the shipment, and time to install the new flooring. Our goal is to make the process stress free. You're welcome to respond via email or phone (989-2101 or 989-2831).
Follow up Comment: I will discuss this with my husband. I want to thank you for replying so quickly to me. I appreciate someone who knows how to do business and do it right. What a refreshing change. I will get back together with you on this by Monday at the latest.

Question from Janice of Sunrise, FL: Is your "Spot Out" product available in stores. If it is not, is it orderable? If so, please advise of the price, shipping and any other charges, delivery time, and guarantee. I have tried just about every other product that is available and nothing seems to get my cat's vomit stains out of the carpet. Thank you.
Answer: We have found Spot Out successful to getting out vomit stains, but we cannot guarantee the same results on all carpet. You are always welcome to use our stain removal home remedies for free. The more treatments attempted to lift a stain, the more unlikely the stain will be removed. Permanent discolorations can often be cut out and replaced with invisible seam work. We sell the Spot Out in two bottle minimums. The Spot Out is in-stock and ready for shipment. In general, the Spot Out is a wonderful product that is great to have on hand in any home. Do not over saturate the carpet with cleaner. You can purchase through our website on-line. Your bottles of cleaner will arrive in four to seven business days of payment.

Question from Joanne in Apopka, FL: We are moving into a house. The seller was going to put new carpeting throughout, but we opted for a flooring allowance so we can put down a pergo type wood flooring. We have two big dogs so we don't like carpeting. Anyhow, we have a pattern for the living room/dining room, but i wanted to do something different in the bedrooms. Either a wood or tile-like covering will do, but I'm not sure what type of pattern to go with, or even how different I can go without looking tacky! Please give me suggestions. Also, two of the bedrooms would be rarely be used so we were also hoping to save some money covering those floors. Thanks.
Answer: Most residential spaces do not use patterns in the floor. However, special layouts are commonly incorporated by higher end residential and commercial facilities. The size of the space should have some influence on your decision. The larger the area, the more suited a space is for a pattern in the layout. As you've already noted, the room will feel overwhelming if you make the flooring pattern too busy and have very complex elements on the walls (e.g., wallpaper, pictures, moldings, etc.). You may want to consider a mild design such as placing the product (tiles or planks) on a 45 degree diagonal. If you go with a tile product, you may wish to use a staggered layout in which every other row is displaced by half the width of the tile. This staggered pattern will look like bricks on the face of a wall. You can always run the tile or planks the long way and use a 1 foot or 2 foot border around the perimeter. The perimeter can be the same color or a different color. Much more dynamic layouts can be created, but that would too much to describe in writing and would likely be overkill. Planning is key. Put the layout on paper with exact measurements. You may use a little more product than required by a simply installation, but the pattern will make a real fashion statement to all your visitors.

Question from Linda in Odessa, FL: Previous owners had doggies that chewed up some of the carpet where the carpet meets the hard surfaces. We want to replace the carpet with hardwood once we get over the shock of the move, but will need to patch for now. can you give me an estimate? Thanks!
Answer: We can repair the torn carpet edge and install the new hardwood when the time comes. We will have a representative call you. We will need physical dimensions of the threshold and the torn section. Furthermore, we will need to know if you have supply carpet available for the repair. To read more on this specific subject, click Repairs.

Question from Trudy: My rug is hand tufted with 3/4 of an inch thickness. Do you think that the small knottted fringe number WR5-1 would look nice on it? Or do you think that it's too small for a rug that size and thickness. My rug is only worth about $500. I want the fringe to enhance it, but not cost more than the rug. Also, how much is the scrim per foot and the glue? Are these supplies in stock or do you have to order them?
Answer: The scrim (to reinforce the edge and to add length) and the latex glue (to attach the scrim) are priced as follows.  The scrim is $0.50 per linear foot. One 8 oz. bottle of latex glue which comes in a squeeze bottle with an easy applicator tip is $8.63. I'm doubtful you can do both sides with only 8 ounces, so you may wish to buy two bottles. You can also upgrade to a 32 oz bottle for only $14.37, but 32 ounces will be too much latex, the bottle does not come with an easy tip for application, and the weight of the 32 oz bottle will drive up the shipping expense. WR5-1 would be a fine choice for the rug. Larger rugs are more suited for the more expensive fringe with big knots. At the same time, I should note that we have rugs pass through here that are your size with no knots. The fringe type you've selected is probably the most common. We have WR5-1 available, but not in the length you need. Each side of the rug needs an uncut 8.5 foot long piece if I remember correctly. Additional fringe will arrive in the next couple of days. So, pick any on the list, and you should be fine. Please tell me the exact length you desire. The length can be determined by adding 6 inches to the width and multiplying by 2 to account for both sides.

Question from Michael in Tampa, FL: We have about a parquet floor area of 1000-1200 square feet. The floors need to be sanded and coated. How much do you charge per square feet and how far in advance do we have to schedule an appointment? Also, how long will it take to complete the refinishing? Thank you.
Answer: Pricing to sand and refinish hardwood floors varies depending on (1) the condition of your wood, (2) the number of coats of finish, (3) the type of finished applied, and a few other factors such as furniture handling, etc. The prices are generally $2.09 to $2.60 per square foot. In some cases, a person is able to save money by going with a recoat instead of a refinishing. If we assume that you have 1100 sf, your price will range between $2299 to $2860. By the way, where are you located? Also, what prompts you to consider sanding and refinishing?
Follow up question: My wife and I are about to buy a house at Chelsea Street in Tampa and as far as we remembered, the parquet floor was scratched up in some areas. If it is possible to just recoding this floors, we would of course rather do that instead of sanding it down. Can you give us the approximate price for just recoding? The whole house is about 1560 square feet, all rooms but kitchen and bathroom have parquet floors. As soon as we get into the house, we will be able to take measurements and are able to give exact amount of square feet. 
Answer: The recoating process has a distinct risk factor when the existing finish is of an unknown brand and type. Being that you are the new owner, I'll assume that you do not know the brand and type of the existing finish. If the bond is not solid between the old and new finish due to differences in chemistry, the new finish will peel up prematurely. Then, you will be back to square one and frustrated that you've wasted the money. Thus, I'll suggest that you stick with the plan to sand and refinish the wood. I will mention one other component we've not yet discussed. Sanding and refinishing requires that the shoemolding or toemolding, which lines the base of the walls, be removed. After the process is over, the moldings will have to be reattached or replaced with new. We charge $X.xx per foot to cut and attach new molding which primed and ready for paint. We charge $X.xx per foot to detach and reattach the existing molding. Some of the existing moldings may crack during the removal necessitating replacement with new molding.

Question from David in New Glarus, WI: We have a hardware floor (yellow pine) that was finished with waterbourne urethane.  What would you suggest that would have better durability than the waterbourne urethane?  Can we use a non-waterbourne (solvent, moisture-cure, acid-cure) urethane over the waterbourne? We would sand to abrade the surface before applying the solvent-urethane.  Thank you for your time.
Answer: I'm sorry to hear you're having problems with your waterborne urethane finish. The brand used and/or the application process may be posing a problem. Also, it is fair to distinguish between finish durability and wood hardness. Yellow pine is a relatively soft wood and will scratch easier than many other hardwoods no matter what finish is applied. We use a waterborne urethane finish named Traffic made by Bona Kemi which claims that Traffic is the most durable finish on the market. Waterborne finishes are new and improved technology that cost more, but will out perform the solvent-based finishes. As for recoating the existing waterborne finish, you run a risk of major problems if you recoat with a different type finish. Risk can be reduced (but not guaranteed) by using the Bona Prep Adhesion System. Other manufacturers offer similar products. Stick with one manufacturer. One last note, remember that the higher the sheen, the more scratches will show. Thus, satin or semi-gloss finishes appear to wear better. 




 

All Materials are Copyrighted © 2000
by Wolfe Flooring, Inc. of Tampa, FL 33637   All rights reserved.
A Full Service Flooring Company:  Sales, Installation, Maintenance & Repairs
Carpet, Rugs, Hardwood, Laminate, Ceramic, Stone, Vinyl, Rubber, VCT
Serving Temple Terrace, Tampa, Brandon, and Surrounding Communities
of Tampa Bay in Central Florida
813-989-2101  or   813-989-2831
Designed by Morning Star Interactive, Inc.